Portofino and the Seaside Villages of the Tigullio Gulf Provide a Relaxing Introduction to the Italian Riviera

The Italian Riviera is the stretch of coastline and inland cities of the Liguria region running from the French border southeast to La Spezia. It is bordered by the Italian Alps and Apennines mountains to the north and the Ligurian Sea to the south. The main cities of this region historically were ancient Savona in the west, the medieval maritime kingdom and modern city of Genoa in the center, and the modern industrial port city of La Spezia to the east. Liguria attracts tourists from all over the world during the warm summer months because of the cliffside villages found in the Cinque Terre and other seaside communities of the Italian Riviera. One way to sample the enchantment of this region is to take a day trip by ferry to three different communities located along the Tigullio Gulf on the Portofino Peninsula. These include the upscale resort village and picturesque harbor of Portofino, the historic Art Nouveau landmarks and marinas of Rapallo, and the relaxed promenade of Santa Margherita Ligure.

Portofino’s Attractions and Cache- Portofino has evolved over the decades into a major tourist attraction that draws up to ten thousand visitors in a single day. Once a tiny fishing village, the town has only about five hundred permanent residents who savor the picturesque harbor, clear water, colorful architecture, and natural setting of the location. Most people arrive there on local ferries and disembark for a half day of enjoying premium beach clubs, fashionable shops, specialty dining, and several historic landmarks. Portofino retains its 20th century reputation as a refined spot for wealthy visitors, but most of the mansions have been transformed into boutique hotels and the seasonal crowds can make for long lines for food and service. 

It is worthwhile to walk around the perimeter of the harbor and take in the ambiance of the town square. There are cafes and restaurants with bright awnings and umbrellas for sitting out to view the surroundings and watch other visitors. Dinnertime does not start until long after most of the day trippers leave but snacks, drinks and flavorful entrees are available throughout the day. Two other ways to enjoy the views are to take a trail starting in the harbor and hike up to the famous church of San Giorgio or walk to the beautiful beach on the bay of Paraggi located about a half mile along the narrow coastal road in the direction of Santa Margherita. If you are not into seeing the designer outlets of Louis Vitton, Dior, and other luxury retailers, there are small art galleries and souvenir shops with mementos of the beautiful surroundings.

Rapallo’s History and Charming Waterfront- Another charming town located beyond Portofino on the peninsula is the historic town of Rapallo. This large community of 30,000 residents dates back over a thousand years. Today, it attracts many Italian visitors and seasonal residents from March to October. During the Middle Ages, Rapallo was governed by the Genovese but thereafter the region was attacked frequently by Barbary pirates and Ottoman corsairs. Eventually, locals built a formidable castle on the waterfront in 1556 which juts out into the sea which helped protect the merchant ships and other assets of the community. Today, the Castello Sul Mare hosts exhibitions, summer fireworks shows, and other community events. Another important historic site in Rapallo is the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Montallegro, a 16th century Byzantine church located on an impressive hillside above the town reached by a funicular. A sweeping view of the sea and the town can be enjoyed at the top from the church or at a hotel and several restaurants there. Outdoor enthusiasts often walk the hiking trails down the mountain. 

During the Belle Epoque and after World War I, Rapallo emerged as a popular destination for writers, patricians and travelers seeking to explore the coast. During this period, a grand promenade was built allowing people to stroll along the shoreline to look at the water, enjoy cafes, and look at the boats. A bandshell built there displays frescoes of well-known composers and the buildings set back from the water are colorful and often feature Art Nouveau style elements. The area between the marina to the west and the castle remains popular with visitors as does a pedestrian friendly center set back from the water that is full of shops, eateries, and galleries. There are also private beach clubs outside of the city center to enjoy sunbathing and a swim in the cool waters. Despite the traditional feeling of Rapallo, its central location and relaxed vibe make it an excellent place to visit the Cinque Terre villages as well as Portofino and other sites on the peninsula. 

Santa Margherita Ligure’s Relaxed and Elegant Atmosphere- For some visitors to the Portofino peninsula, Santa Margherita Ligure represents a perfect balance between the famous elegance of Portofino and the staid maturity of Rapallo. This town is quaint enough to still have a fishing fleet and a fish market but refined enough to feature a palm lined harbor with a seafront featuring smart yachts, cafes, shops, and a broad selection of hotels and restaurants. One attraction there is the grand 17th century Villa Durazzo with pleasant gardens, panoramic views of the port, restored rooms, and a popular cafe. The beaches in Santa Margherita Ligure are more accessible and offer a cleaner coastline for visitors to enjoy than the other two towns. Similarly, it can be reached by train direct from Genoa or towns located to the south along the coast.